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On the first day of our stay, we visited two sardine canneries
on Magdalena Bay, Calmex and Moon Industries. Togerther these
two plants harvest about 200 tons of sardines a night 20 days a
month. The fishing cycle for sardines is lunar: they cannot be
fished when the moon is full, because it.s hard to find them
their iridescent bodies glowing in the water, so all of the
fishing is done on the days when the moon.s light is not
reflecting on the water.
1,000 ton per day processing capacity in Puerto San Carlos
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While everyone knows that these 'pesqueras' manufacture sardines for canning
and human consumption, the real sardine cash crop here is fishmeal, which is
sold to feed the stocks in the chicken and pig industries in Mexico and
abroad. The process of creating this fishmeal, called reduction,while
lucrative, is not labor intensive, with only 12 employees needed to process
150 tons of fishmeal daily. As you can see from the catch information
graphic above, 71% of the sardine catch is the high quality Monterey
sardine. Of this high-quality sardine catch, close to 70% of the actual
biomass of the sardine catch is being reduced by the century-old
burning, or reduction, technique which cooks out most of the protein and
makes a low-quality fishmeal. The reduction process, as well as the
catching, manual processing, freezing, canning, and storage of sardines, all
takes place along a two-mile stretch of sandy shoreline in the town of
Puerto San Carlos.
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Before beginning our tour of the sardine plants, we were briefed on Mexican
regulations concerning sardines. The only regulation on fishing sardines in
Mexican waters is that their size comply with a 14.5 cm minimum length. We
observed the sardine factory process in its entirety, from the purse seiners
arriving back to the pier from the bay with a night.s catch, to the sardines
being piped in from boat to conveyor belt to transport truck. The sardines.
journey terminates either at the processing plant, where they are manually
processed for human consumption, which is very labor intensive, or separated
for burning in the reduction plant. Getting this close to the process, it
became clear that the 14.5 centimeter size minimum was unenforced and, for
all intents and purposes, unenforceable. All sardines caught in the nets
were kept on the sardine boats for processing, and there was no intention or
inclination to separate out the sardines that came in below the regulatory
length, because there were no people present at any part of the process to
enforce the size regulation.
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Unenforced regulations have had a significant impact on the size of the
sardine product for human consumption. Where sardine cans two or three
years ago contained an average of 7-9 sardines per can, the number now
averages 14-15 sardines per can. Based on anecdotal information obtained
from sources close the sardine industry, the size of the sardines now being
caught in Magdalena Bay has shrunk by half in the last three years.
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The final leg of the sardine cannery tour was also the most intriguing,
involving a visit to the Calmex reduction plant, the largest such plant in
Mexico. The head, tail and guts of the sardine and as much as 70% of the
sardine's body are reduced here to a powder-like substance called fishmeal.
This fishmeal is sold to food factories, which in turn modify existing grain
combinations with it to produce the cheapest.albeit low quality.source of
protein available. This mixture is then put on market and sold to the
chicken and pig industries at home in Mexico and abroad. This cheap source
of protein has accounted for most of the accelerated growth of the now-giant
poultry industry in Mexico and abroad, an industry which at one time existed
mostly as a small, provincial industry, severely limited in growth by feed
limitations.
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Labor Intensive Processing for Human Consumption
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The reduction plant accounts for the foul smell permeating the town of
Puerto San Carlos each afternoon, as the reduction plant would start the
burning process. The reduction plant only manufactures 100-150 tons of
fishmeal per day, although it is capable of churning out at least 1000 tons
per day. The Moon Industries plant, owned by the notorious Reverend Moon,
is also getting in on the reduction process, with plans to build a 60 ton
reduction facility in the near future, turning the wasteful but surprisingly
lucrative reduction process into a full time stink for the town of Puerto
San Carlos, and a more onerous burden on the already maximized sardine
fishery here in Magdalena Bay.
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